Welcome to friction zone.

Finding the friction zone and learning to use it - With the engine running and transmission in neutral, squeeze the clutch lever and shift the motorcycle into first gear. With both feet on the ground, slowly ease out the clutch lever until you hear the engine begin to slow and feel the bike inch forward. You are now in the motorcycle friction zone. pull the clutch lever in, roll back and practice again until you can consistently find the friction zone.  If you feel the motorcycle beginning to stall, squeeze the clutch lever in again. If you use too much throttle and don't pull in the clutch lever enough the motorcycle will jump forward. The proper use of the friction zone are one of the skills necessary to ride a motorcycle smoothly and safely.

Explanation of the friction zone: Think of the clutch as a dimmer switch (lighting dimmer switch), let it out until the light just starts to come on, you got it - that's the friction zone.

When the clutch lever is pulled all the way in, the engine is disengaged. When the clutch lever is partially out the engine and rear wheel are somewhat connected. The clutch slips.

friction zone Bad for the Clutch?
 A motorcycle has a wet clutch. A wet clutch is covered with engine oil, which also keeps the surfaces clean and gives smoother performance and longer life. Excessive use of the "friction zone" does lower the life of the plates, however, there are multiple plates in a motorcycle clutch and this increases the efficiency. When a motorcycle clutch wears, the plates become thinner. This lessens the spring pressure. If you slip the clutch excessively it is possible to burn the plates. BMWs, some Harley-Davidsons, a few Japanese bikes,  have dry clutches.

Do not use oil additives such as molybdenum disulfide, Friction modifiers will cause wet clutches to slip.

Let's discuss Motorcycle oil - Manufacturers do extensive testing and recommend an oil change schedule based on their oil filtration system and air intake system. Each motorcycle brand and model may have different schedules.

 Synthetics  - are much less prone to viscosity loss at high temperatures.  These polymers are less prone to shearing, so they are effective for a much longer period of time than the VI improvers used in petroleum oils. In other words, synthetic oils do not quickly lose their ability to maintain viscosity at high temperatures as petroleum oils do. Synthetic oils, are completely compatible with petroleum oils. Synthetic Motor oil is the way to go!

Will using Synthetic oil void your warranty? NO, The Magnuson-Moss Act prohibits tie-in coverage--this means that a company cannot make warranty coverage contingent on,  dealer service only or the use of a specific oil brand.

Break-down - Lubricating oils are not only prone to viscosity loss over time. They are also susceptible to breakdown due to contamination and oxidation which decreases the useful life of an oil. Additives are often used in order to inhibit the susceptibility of a basestock to this breakdown over time.

WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN? The first number (the "5" in 5w30) is only a relative number which  indicates how easily it will allow an engine to "turn over" at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures.